Menus differ a little by bank, but it's always one of these.

Monthly statement (easiest): sign in to your bank or card → Statements (sometimes Documents) → pick last month → download or save as PDF. Drop the last 2 or 3 months.

A whole year at once: your account → Activity or Transactions → Download or Export → file type CSV, date range 12 months. Catches the once-a-year charges too.

On your phone: open the statement in the bank's app → Share → Save to Files (or Download). Then tap the green button here and pick it.

Credit unions and smaller banks often allow only 90 days per export. Export a few ranges and drop them one after another.

Payment apps and store cards have statements too, usually under Activity → Statements. Worth doing: trials love to hide there.

Most services keep you until the next bill date whether you cancel today or the day before. Cancelling early gives nothing back. We point you to the day before the next charge, and you can set a reminder for it.

When you change a price, the old one is kept. The difference shows under Price creep.

The chopping block's ranking of what to cancel first: what it costs, how little you've used it, and how much the price has crept since you joined.

Because we're a subscription too. We show our own price, our next charge, and a Bust it that cancels us in one tap. If we're not worth it, we should be the easiest one to drop.

Drop a statement for each one, all at once. Each subscription remembers which card it's paid from, so "missing" only fires when that card's statement comes in without it. Cards you didn't drop are listed as "not checked" instead of guessed at. If a charge moves to a different card, we notice and update it.

No. It takes you to the service with the right steps. You stay in control.

On your device, and in your account once you sign in, so your phone and computer match. Encrypted, never shared or sold. Statements are never stored anywhere.

It finds every recurring charge you pay, names it, puts it on one list with the card it hits and the day it hits, and then helps you cut the ones you don't use. Subscriptions and bills live on separate tabs so your "subscriptions" number stays honest.

Drop a statement. Sign in to your bank or card, open Statements, save the last 2 or 3 months as PDF, and drop them on the Home screen or under Monthly check-up. In about a minute every repeating charge is on your list, named. Typing them in by hand works too, from the + button under Subs.

You tapped "See a sample" (or "Load example subscriptions" under Your data), so you can see how everything works before you add your own. Tap "Use my own list" on the yellow strip to clear them.

No. Drop a statement and tick what it finds. Untick anything that's a one-off. You can always add or delete later.

No. The file is read on your device by the app itself. PDFs are read by an open-source reader that runs on your phone or computer. The file never leaves it, and we never see it.

Don't take our word for it. On a computer, open the browser's developer tools (F12), go to the Network tab, then drop a statement. You'll see no request carrying your file. The site runs under a browser rule (a Content Security Policy) that lets it talk to exactly two places: your own account, so your list can follow you between phone and computer, and this site's own server, for paying. The file itself is never sent anywhere; only the list the app builds from it.

Only the rows you tick, and only their name, amount, date and which card. Everyday purchases like gas and groceries are counted but not kept. Deposits and transfers are skipped entirely. A payment to a credit card goes on Bills, one per card.

Either works. The PDF statement is the easiest to find at most banks. A CSV export of the last 12 months catches the once-a-year charges in one go. You can drop both.

Yes. Drop them whenever you find them, in any order, even one you already dropped. An older statement fills in the past; it never rolls a price back, moves a charge to another card, or calls something missing that a newer statement already showed. Something that stopped long before your newest statement goes to Where did they go?, not onto your list.

Two or three is the sweet spot. One month finds the obvious ones; a second month proves which ones repeat and catches price changes. A full year catches annual charges.

Yes, all at once. Each subscription remembers its card, so "missing" only fires when that card's own statement comes in without it. Cards you didn't drop are listed as "not checked" instead of guessed at.

Open "What did it read?" under the dropped file. If the charge isn't in the list, the reader never saw it as a dated line with an amount, and we'd want to see the file format. If it's in the list but wasn't suggested, tick it under "Possible". That teaches nothing yet, but it gets it on your list.

Charges seen only once, or with amounts that vary, so one month can't show a pattern. Tick anything you know repeats. Drop another month and the repeats get found by themselves.

Three ways. It repeats on a steady gap at the same amount. Or the name is in our brand book of about 900 services, from streaming to prop trading firms. Or your bank labelled it "recurring". Transfers, deposits and savings moves are never counted, and credit card payments go on Bills, never Subs.

Open it and rename it. Names come from the brand book when we recognise the company, otherwise from the statement text tidied up. Your name sticks from then on.

Phone app stores bill apps under the store's own name, so the statement never says which app. We work out the plan price behind the charge ("$9.99 plan with tax") and give you a button to your phone's subscription list. Rename it once you know.

It repeated every 7 days. That's usually pay-as-you-go, like gas, parking, laundry or coffee, rather than a subscription, so it's left unticked and marked "needs review". Tick it if it really is one, and set the billing to what it should be.

We weren't sure. A charge only counts as a sure thing when it has been seen three or more times on a steady gap. Anything seen once or twice, or with uneven gaps or changing amounts, is added with its best guess and a "needs review" tag, and it's listed under Needs you. Open it, check the price, the billing and the next date, then tap Done. Changing the billing in the finder's Edit panel and tapping Done clears it there too.

Two different amounts on different days, like two streaming channels billed through one company, or two policies with the same insurer. Each gets its own line with the amount in the name.

Subscriptions are things you can cancel with a click and might not be using: streaming, apps, gyms. Bills are rent, insurance, utilities, loans, phone and internet. Bills don't count toward your subscription total and don't get usage questions. They get spike, creep and renewal alerts instead.

Paying a card from your bank account is a bill you pay every month, so the check-up puts each card on Bills, in its own Credit cards list with its own total. It knows the card companies by name, from the big banks to store cards. If one company has two of your cards and prints a different number for each, they're two cards. The amount is what you paid that month, so it moves with your balance. Cards stay out of the Bills total, so nothing you buy on a card (a subscription, say) is counted twice. On the card's own statement the same payment is money coming in, so it's never counted there. If your statements show no payment to a card for three months, it asks whether it's paid off: remove it, or keep it.

Open it and tap "Move to Bills" or "Move to Subs". Name, price, dates, card and history all come with it.

Cloud storage, backup, security and the like run in the background, so they aren't judged on usage. They get their own group in the breakdown. Mark any subscription as always-on under its More options.

The day before a subscription charges, we ask roughly how many hours a day you use it: None, 15 min, 30 min, 1 hr, 2 hrs, 4 hrs, or type an amount per day, week or month. One tap, and there's still time to cancel.

Most services keep you until the next bill date no matter when you cancel, so cancelling early gives nothing back. The day before is the last moment it's free to decide.

What you pay divided by the hours you actually use it. Every subscription is measured the same way, in hours a day, so they can be compared. $17.99 a month at 2 hours a day is 30 cents an hour. $24.99 a month for a gym you visit 3 hours a week is about $1.90 an hour. $59.99 a month for software you open 15 minutes a day is nearly $8 an hour. Set it on any subscription (How much do you use it?), or answer the check-in the day before it charges.

No. It only knows what you tell it in check-ins. In the phone app we may add an optional screen-time link later; it would be off by default.

It goes to the top of the chopping block with a "paid, not used" tag and a Bust it button right in the check-in.

No. It takes you to the right place with the right steps and the best day to do it. You stay in control, and nothing is cancelled by accident.

The savings per month and year, the best day to cancel, our step-by-step guide when we have one, a button to their site (or our best guess at it, marked as a guess), a search for how to cancel, and a reminder for the best day. It's on every charge the check-up finds, so you can cancel straight from the findings, and on every subscription in your list.

Tap Done, it's cancelled and that charge goes straight to Busted so far with its saving counted. It never lands on your subscriptions list. Put back undoes it. Tap Remind me on the best day instead and it joins your list with the reminder set. Everything else on the page still saves as normal.

The day before the next charge. You've paid through then, so cancelling earlier gives nothing back on most services. Gyms and a few apps stop access immediately, and we say so.

Paste the right page under "Their website" in the subscription and it's one tap next time. Known services get their account or cancel page; unknown ones get a guess.

On Home under Busted so far, tap the row and choose "Put back". It returns to Subs with everything it had. The × removes it from the tally instead.

Not as such, but it helps. Every month it lists what's new on each card: charges that card has never had before, biggest first. That's where a surprise shows up. If you don't recognise one, call the number on the back of the card.

Once a month, on your check-up day: the 1st unless you change it under Notifications. One nudge, all cards. Cards that close mid-month will be a few weeks behind, which is fine; it's still the newest statement.

Your to-do list on Home: check-ins waiting, a trial about to bill, a cancel-day reminder, or a card whose statement is due. Tap a row to go do it, which clears it. The i on each row explains it.

Spike: one month far above your usual. Creep: a slow rise since you started tracking. Renewal: a policy or contract ending within 45 days. Tap one to open the bill, which clears it until the amount or date changes again. "Clear all" clears the lot.

Real ones, on your phone or computer, even with the app closed: the day-before check-in, your cancel day, trials ending, yearly charges two weeks out, bill renewals and the monthly statement reminder. Under Notifications, tap "Turn on for this device", pick the time of day they should land, and switch off any you don't want. They're part of the full version and need you to be signed in.

Apple only lets web apps send notifications once they're on your Home Screen. In Safari tap Share, then Add to Home Screen, open the app from there, and the Turn on button appears under Notifications. Android and computers get them straight from the browser.

At the time you pick under Notifications, in your own time zone, once a day, with everything due that day. Nothing due, nothing sent. Price jumps and bill spikes are spotted when you drop a statement, so those show under Needs you right then rather than as a notification.

Not to try it. Everything works on this device without one. Sign in to unlock the full version and to keep your list the same on your phone and computer.

Tap Sign in at the top right, type your email, and we email you a 6-digit code. Type it in and you're in. No password. The first sign-in makes the account.

Yes. Once you're signed in, every change is saved to your account a moment later, and any device you sign into gets the same list. Tap your initial at the top right, then Sync now, to force it.

Tap your initial at the top right, then Sign out. Your list stays on that device; it just stops syncing.

Not from the app yet. Email [email protected] from the address on the account and we'll do it.

So the monthly check-up knows which statement to look in, and so you know which card to watch. It's learned from the statement and shown everywhere: Next due, This week, check-ins and the list.

The next check-up shows it under "Card updates" and fixes it with one tick.

Charges that were coming out regularly, then stopped. Your first big drop finds the ones that stopped before you got here. After that, anything on your list that misses two check-ups in a row moves there, so it stops counting in your totals and stops sending check-ins. Answer each one on the Subs tab: I cancelled it (it goes to Busted so far and the saving counts), Still paying it (it goes back on your list; check the card), or It just ended (a trial or a one-off, not counted). If one charges again, it comes back to your list by itself.

That card hasn't had a statement dropped since the last check-up day. Drop one and it goes grey.

Every price change is kept with its date. The first price you had and the current one are compared under Price creep, with what the creep costs you a year.

Savings you may not have thought of. Yearly switch: if a monthly sub offers a cheaper yearly plan, the saving is shown. Streaming rotation: keep one streaming service at a time and swap, instead of paying for all of them.

Tick any subscriptions and see the monthly and yearly savings add up, before you cancel anything.

No, and on purpose. Free lets you drop a statement and see how much we found, by category, with the names blurred. The sample list shows every feature in full. The full version shows your own names and unlocks the tools, the check-ins, the alerts, the monthly check-up and sync between your devices.

$4.99 a month or $39 a year. You pay on Stripe's secure page, not ours, so we never see your card. The full version works on every device you sign into.

Open the Sneaky Subscriptions row in your own list and tap Bust it, then Cancel my plan. One tap, no email, no phone call. You keep the full version until the end of the period you've paid for, then it ends. Changed your mind before then? Your account sheet has a Keep my plan button.

Cancel any time and you keep everything until the end of what you paid for. We don't refund the days already used.

Then there's nothing to pay for yet. Free never charges, and the full version only matters once there's a list worth working with. If a statement read badly, email [email protected] and we'll add that bank's format.

It reads the lines on your statement and looks for what repeats. Banks print names in odd ways, a charge that has only shown up once can't prove a pattern, and two different things from the same company can look alike. So: anything it isn't sure about is marked "needs review", you can fix any row by tapping it, and you can add anything it missed with the + button. Dropping the same month twice never doubles a row, and each new month updates the rows you already have. If it read a statement badly, email [email protected] and we'll teach it that bank.

Because we're a subscription too. We show our price, our next charge, how much we've saved you against what we cost, and a Bust it that cancels us in one tap. If we're not worth it, we should be the easiest one to drop.

Share your link. When a friend joins and their first payment goes through, your next month is free. On a yearly plan, a month's worth comes off your next renewal instead. One free month per friend, no limit on friends. Nothing is given until they've paid.

On your device, and if you sign in, in your account too so your phone and computer match. It's your list: names, amounts, dates, cards. Encrypted in transit and at rest, never shared or sold. Statements are never stored anywhere.

No. Nothing to link, no passwords to hand over. You drop a statement you already have. A bank link may come later as an optional paid add-on; it will never be required.

Under Your data you can clear everything on this device in one tap. Deleting the account as well, or exporting your list as a file, is a [email protected] email for now; both are on our list.

Make sure the file is a PDF or CSV. On a phone, tap the green button to pick files instead of dragging. If the PDF is a scan (a photo of a statement), there's no text to read; use the CSV export instead.

The statement's lines didn't look like date, description, amount. Open "What did it read?" and email the first few lines of the file, with the amounts changed, to [email protected]. We add bank formats as we see them.

Drop this month's statement. Prices, next dates and cards all update from it.

Right here, with the switch below. Or hide them one at a time with their ×. "Show all tips again" brings them back.